Monday, May 5, 2008

Amazing Race : Koh Chang

Sorry about this picture being at the top. It is from the bus ride home, it will make more sense when you read this post. I am unable to move the pictures around.

I forgot to tell you about my meals Thursday. We went out to eat at this place that had BBQ chicken on the menu. I decided to try some with rice, so I ordered half a chicken, thinking it was only a small chicken, so there would not be too much meat. My plate arrived it was overflowing with the biggest “half a chicken” I have ever seen in my life. Between Misty and I, we could not finish it. Later for supper I had chicken again, so I think I had my protein for the week.

May 3rd, 2008

Our amazing race adventure was not able to go as planned, when we woke up this morning to the rain. We were planning on all renting motorbikes, and doing various challenges and pit stops that we made up all over the island, including zip-lining and jungle swinging as well as hiking to waterfalls and kayaking. Renting motorbikes was not a safe idea because of all of the water that had accumulated on the roads, and because it was still pouring rain. Instead we paid a little bit more money to rent a car. A standard and an automatic were the same price so we decided to treat ourselves to an automatic, this way we would also all be able to take a turn behind the wheel. Thank God we rented the automatic because the ‘sharp curves’ going up the mountains really were sharp curves!

Our 2006 Toyota was waiting for us in front of the resort within 30 minutes of calling for it. The gas tank was only a quarter full and we were told to bring it back the same way. All we needed to rent the car was a passport. They did not need to see we had a drivers license, need to know who was driving or how many kms we were planning on going.







We drove about 6 km down the road to the nearest gas station. Here is where we made our first big mistake. We asked to have the car filled up, not thinking about how far a car can go on a full tank of gas, and how small the island actually is. It cost the same amount to fill the car up with gas, as it did to rent it in the first place. The gas was already in, so we had no choice but to pay for it and make the most of it. Let me tell you that it is a completely different feeling to drive a car when you do not have to worry about kms and you want to burn as much gas as possible.
We headed to the opposite side of the island. Koh Chang does not have a road that goes completely around the island yet, but they are in the process of building one. Really, Koh Chang has only one main road without traffic lights or stop signs. Heather started off driving first, with me riding shot gun. It was a very strange feeling being on what is normally the driver’s side of the car, but not having a steering wheel in front of me. It was also a little scary at first getting used to the fact that there is no shoulder on the road. The road was basically half a foot of concrete that is wide enough to accommodate two stationary cars at the best of times. Going around the mountains was especially challenging as you could not see around the next bend and there were often cars coming right at you.



Heather's first pit stop...Restroom!


I think this was a fish farm or something along the way.

Raining! It is no wonder why we didn't hike to the waterfalls.

We drove right to the small fishing villages at the end of the island. We attempted to find some waterfalls but they were not right at roadside, and it was raining too hard to get out and walk. Many of the roads on the mountain were covered with fallen branches or slowly being taken over by mud slides, making many of the roads on the opposite side of the mountain one lane.





Because we were on another leg of our amazing race, we were going to go kayaking as our first challenge. It would be our only activity that we could still do in the rain relatively safely. I was chosen out of the 3 of us to go and ask about the kayaks and whether we could still use them in the rain. I was pretty wet when I came back in the car.

Instead of renting kayaks we rented a traditional Thai boat that was rowed by a guide. We sat around a small table under an umbrella. The tour lasted an hour and took us around the mangrove forests, which I must say are incredible. We also came across a man fishing close to his small fishing village. The experience was peaceful and at many times, very surreal. The rain enhanced the overall calmness of the lake.
Picture above: scooping water out of the boat.
Mangrove forest




Thinking hard. I don't know what I was thinking about.
Heather


Our rower.



There was a man fishing on the lake, it added to the beauty of the place.










A small fishing village on the lake.


Spider! This picture is for you Laura.


After our pit stop (we could not have called this a challenge as we did not have to do anything), it was my turn to drive the car. My first mission was to back it up down the narrow pathway onto the main road. Not only was it weird to drive and experience driving from a whole different perspective, it was also very hard to have the gear lever on the other side of you. I realized it only after hitting my hand on the door. I had to use it a lot to put the car into low gear going through the mountains. The drive was much like going around the Cabot trail, just steeper hills and sharper turns.
We headed down to long beach which has been said to be the most beautiful beach on the island. From the views on the mountain it did not fail to disappoint. However, we were not able to go completely to the beach because the concrete road ended and the now muddy road did not look like it was in the best condition.




The whole drive on the east side of the island had breath taking spectacular views. We attempted to stop at all of the views and take a picture.

Our next pit stop was lunch. However we were not able to go to the place we planned and read about in our lonely planet guides as it looked desolate.




I could not have said it better myself.



Many times the road was covered, and made into only one lane.


We drove back to our side of the island and went to an Indian Restaurant. I never tasted real Indian food before, but I decided today that it seemed a lot spicier than Thai food. Lunch was okay but not a place I would go back to.

We all piled back into the car, with Misty at the wheel. She drove about 1 minute, almost hitting a parked car and a pedestrian waiting to cross the street and then pulled over and said “I can’t do this.” Back behind the wheel I go. It is not really fair to pick on her as it has been months since she has been behind the wheel and everything really was different.

I drove for about 90% of the day. It was nice to drive again and although it was very challenging, especially during huge downpours or in the dark, the adrenaline rush was very exciting.

Next stop was the jungle park adventure. Unfortunately I think the weather forced this place to close early, so back on the main road we went. We checked out some of the local resorts and then went to the tip of the island where we stopped at Bang Bao fishing village. I found most of the stuff to be too tacky or things that are sold all over the mainland. Nothing really excited me.

As the sky got darker we all jumped back into the car to go home to our resort, as it would be way too dangerous to try and drive in the pouring rain and darkness. The rain was very heavy on the way home which made for poor visibility.

Arriving back at out resort we felt one of the downsides of having a car; parking. Because parallel parking in the rain and darkness, in a car you are not familiar with, on a busy street when everything is backwards in the car, did not sound too appealing to me, we ended up spending about 10 minutes navigating through the driveway in an attempt to park. Finally, we made it.

Our next stop was a challenge; we all had to get a Thai massage. As you read in my previous posts this was never high on my priority list or list of exciting things, it had to be a challenge and not a pit stop.

We went to the spa at Cookies Resort, down the street where all 3 of us could be side by side. The massage was actually not that bad, and I think it was better than an oil massage. At times I swear she was walking on my back or digging her feet into me, while pulling one of my limbs. At other times it did feel like she was punching me, or that I was being violated with my clothes on, but in the end we felt as relaxed as wet pool noodles; too lazy to move. I do not think Misty enjoyed it like Heather and I. but she can always fall back on her oil massages.

We drove to an Irish Pub for supper. I thought parking the car was challenging, but backing the car out of the same driveway that we struggled to drive forward in was an experience in itself. After many minutes passed by, and having moved a few motorbikes and having the girls direct me in the dark, we were on our way.

Paddy’s Pub was a big disappointment, from the food to the blaring TV, and all the ugly western men with the Thai women. We were happy to get out of there.

The rest of our evening was filled with conversation and laughter. I should also mention that even after driving every single road on the whole island, we did not even come close to using a quarter tank of gas. We are going to speak to the car owner in the morning and see if we can get any money back or at least get a drive to the pier to catch our ferry.

May 4, 2008

We awoke to the sound of rain again this morning, causing Misty and I, to once again change our plans. We were going to drive up to see some of the waterfalls before we had to return the car but we were not too fond of getting completely drenched. We said good bye to Heather and then headed for breakfast. Heather flew out of Trat in the early morning so she could catch her flight in Bangkok.

We kicked around until it was time to return the car and checked out of our room and handed in the car keys at the same time. A woman came to pick up the car as the company works with the resort, but is not a part of it. I explained the gas situation and we argued about it for a good 45 minutes. I understand that we were partially at fault, but we were also giving them a car completely full of gas. If we did not fill the car at all we still would have had some gas left in it, so we were quite frustrated. We ended up getting 500 baht back, which is better than nothing. This would at least pay for our bus ride home. We were going to ask them to drive us back to the pier but I think in the end she was so mad at me, I would not dare get in a car with her.

We waited in the rain for about 15 minutes until a taxi/songtheaw finally came to get us. Many people also flagged down the same songtheaw so by the time we reached the pier we were crammed full not only with people but bags and suitcases as well. Thankfully Misty and I only had to go to the first of the three piers. It did not take long for the ferry to arrive and they loaded people on foot first. Misty and I were one of the first people on so we grabbed a spot that did not look too wet so we would have a relatively dry ride. The water was a little rough and people were moving from one side to the other the whole way to avoid getting wet. The scene was quite chaotic, and I think I would have been a little more freaked out if I was paying more attention to it. I met a group of Thai teachers on board and had a wonderful conversation with them the whole trip. There were about 10 of them, and as one walked by they would grab them and introduce them and say I was also a teacher, from Canada.

As we got off the ferry we were ambushed by taxi drivers asking us if we had a ticket. No matter what answer I gave, they insisted that I had to go with them on the taxi to the bus station. Because they were so pushy I decided to bypass them and see what they were trying to avoid us seeing. In the ferry building there were people selling tickets for the buses out front. One girl came and met us and asked if we needed a ticket. She was going to sell us a ticket to Ekkamai for 300 Baht/Person. I tried to argue it down as we normally only pay 250 Baht. However, we would really end up paying the 300 Baht once we factored in the 40 minute songthaew ride to the bus station. I had a funny feeling about the bus, as I read about situations in our travel guides and lonely planet books about private bus companies. I insisted that we be on the VIP government bus instead of a minibus, as that is what we normally take, and I thought it would guarantee us the same thing. I also asked if the air conditioning worked as that is a necessity for a 5 hour bus ride, and private bus companies are notorious for having broken AC units.

It did not take long for her to call us and tell us the bus was loading. It was a double decker bus, where the passengers sit on the top and the bathroom, luggage and sometimes some seats are located on the bottom. We chose a seat right across from the steps so we could sit together. We would soon learn that this was a complete mistake.

When the bus filled up we just sat there for a good 20 minutes. Some people were getting very frustrated and I was worried this bus ride might get ugly. We also boarded at 11:30, so some people were starting to get hungry. On the government buses you usually get a water and a small box of food right away, on this bus we did not get anything. As soon as the bus started the pipe above me from the wall to the ceiling started leaking, right on my lap. So I sat 5 hours with a leak above me. I could see that it was an issue before as some tape and material was wrapped around it but it did not seem to do the trick. I wrapped the curtains all around it and it held off the water a lot better. All of the air conditioning units worked but they were all dripping water on everyone’s head. Also, the window across from us was broken and the whole bus was not in the best shape. Whenever we stopped at a set of lights, and the bus driver started to go again it sounded like the whole engine kicked out as we were jerked in our seats. The worst part was the smell. The washroom was located right below us, and every time someone went down to use it, the smell lingered in the air for a good 15 minutes. The whole bus smelled like one giant outhouse and sometimes it was so over bearing that we were all forced to plug our nose. The people at the back of the bus experienced it the worst and no one dared go to the bathroom as it would unlock the aroma again. There were 2 movies playing throughout the ride and they skipped and paused several times. It was very annoying. Also, the volume was turned up so loud that you were almost forced to watch it as you could not hear the music in your ipod, or be able to think to read a book.

Sitting in a leaking bus, hungry and having to use the bathroom so bad, many people were getting very cranky, so when we stopped some people were a little relived, thinking it was our turn to get off the bus and stretch our legs. However, the bus doors did not open, and instead we watched the bus driver get off the bus, go into a store, get a fanta and come out drinking it. Once again people were cranky.

Finally 4 hours into the bus ride we stopped. It was not the usual place we stop at on the buses that run from the bus terminal, but there was food there and a bathroom none the less. As soon as the bus door opened there was a stampede of people going to the bathroom, lead by Misty. The food at the little street restaurant and store was very expensive, so I went for some rice and Thai stir-fry, thinking it would be cheaper than the packaged good. The plate of food cost 50 Baht, which was a lot more than the 25 baht we would normally pay for the same time. In total my purchase of food and peanuts was 100 baht. Poor Misty bought a 40 Baht coke, which would not even cost that much at a restaurant. The good news about this place was that we were only about an hour from home.

As we were waiting for the bus to load, I said to Misty “Wouldn’t it suck if there was a 7 eleven in walking distance and we did not know it?” Well, the bus got back on the road, turned around and went to a gas station, complete with a 7 eleven convenience store. I was not impressed. For the rest of the ride the bus blared oldies rock music, which was not very enjoyable to listen to at such high volume.

We were dropped off down the road from the bus station, but I didn’t care, I would not wait to get off of that nightmare. SiJie met us there and we took the BTS to Siam Centre. We were looking to buy Heather a bag that she really liked. Misty got hers there, but when we arrived they were all sold out.

We met up with Carole at her hostel for dinner. Carole is from Acadia as well, and is teaching at the same place as Heather. They were both visiting for the weekend, but Carole wanted to spend time in the city as opposed to the beach. It sounded like she had a good time overall, but there was still so much she wanted to see, so hopefully they will both be back again.

We had a lovely evening with Carole and saw the swanky hostel she was staying at. If anyone is ever coming to Bangkok and wants a cheap place to stay, this is the place to be!

That’s about it for our Sunday. It feels good to be back at Mercy.


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